When the thermometer creeps past 90 and the city air is heavy with smog, you know it’s time for a trip to the Foothills. Yet while many of us have spent countless hours hiking, running, paddling or shade-seeking in the mountains that define our western skyline, we more rarely head “up the hill” in search of a memorable meal. So this summer, we’ve rounded up a few higher-elevation edible adventures—just a stone’s throw from some of the state’s most scenic parks, lakes and trails.
Marigold | Lyons, CO
If you’ve been to Rocky Mountain National Park, you’ve likely whizzed through Lyons, stopping only for a pit stop or to stretch your legs. Yet those who take the time to linger in this eclectic, artsy little town are often surprised by what they find—and perhaps no one more so than Chef Theo Adley.
Originally, Theo and his wife, Jaclyn—a teacher in the Boulder Valley school district—were looking at restaurant spaces in Denver and Boulder. But after two decades in hospitality, Theo had a long list of real estate requirements. “My wife has really been Marigold’s champion. If we were going to invest in something, it was important to me that we found a space that spoke to both of us.”
After countless months of searching, the pair made an unexpected, but lucky, discovery in Lyons: a long, narrow space that was primarily a commercial kitchen. “I have a thing for cute old buildings,” Theo laughs, “and we were able to do a lot of the work ourselves or buy things secondhand.” That included the clever construction of benches that double as wine storage, a salvaged L-shaped bar and an oversized butcher block table inherited from the previous tenant. The DIY aesthetic extends to artfully framed dried flowers, wine bottles doubling as candle holders (wax dripping sculpturally down their sides) and miscellaneous animal figurines hidden among windowsills or bookshelves. Together, the thrifted approach provides a polished, but lived-in, sensibility, akin to a modern European bistro or brasserie.
As Theo and his team built out the space, neighbors started stopping by—first with eggs, then with vegetables from their gardens. “Normally, as restaurant owners, you expect to give out hospitality. But this town has inverted that entire concept—they could not have been more welcoming to us.” One gets the impression, in fact, that the town was eagerly waiting for such a restaurant. During evening dinner service, Lyons regulars seem to fill as many tables as the destination diners, with both audibly appreciating selections from the tightly curated wine list and ever-changing menu.
The ambiance alone at Marigold would be enough to recommend a visit. Yet the food more than lives up to the occasion, with a laser focus on flavor that feels both transportive and effortless. “We’re just Italian enough, just French enough,” Theo muses, “but we’re not afraid to use a dashi or a Japanese ingredient. We’ll use whatever gives dishes nuance and impact, but guests should never be bogged down in the ‘foodie-ness’ of it.”
In truth, the only thing that risks to “bog down” (out of town) guests is the question of how quickly they can return. In the meantime, Theo is keeping his eye on the prize: “Somehow, I have the restaurant of my dreams, in a town that I love, with an incredible staff. I cook what I want to cook, and people seem to like it.”
A Perfect (Adventure) Pairing: While Theo Adley says “nothing can beat Rocky Mountain National Park,” the nearby trails at Hale Ranch and Rabbit Mountain are a wonderful, less touristy alternative. On hotter days, he recommends “just strolling along and dipping your feet in the river. The LaVern M. Johnson Park is a hidden gem down the road.”
Decent Bagel | Nederland, CO
Better than “decent,” this family-run business is a year-round destination for hungry adventurers. Fiancés and co-founders Audrey Gebhardt and Carl Fritschel previously ran a catering company in Denver, while living in the remote alpine town of Rollinsville. When Covid upended their previous venture, Audrey’s father, Mike Gebhardt, joined the pair to launch a business closer to home: Decent Bagel.
Crunchy yet chewy and completely coated with seeds, Decent’s hand-shaped bagels are so craveable that Audrey (a Long Island native) can proudly say “We’ve had a few New Yorkers take them home frozen in their suitcases.” Yet those familiar with Big Apple bagels will find a few innovations too. Rather than greasy, bodega-quality ingredients, the Nederland shop tops their bagels with Vital Farms eggs, Tillamook cheddar, Gotham Greens’ hydroponic produce and locally grown heirloom tomatoes (but only in season!).
“We’re trying to make an intentional impact with our ingredients,” Carl explains. With a career that has ranged from award-winning kitchens in St. Louis and Atlanta, to getting his hands dirty at organic Boulder farms, his background blends practical business experience with an appreciation for ethical sourcing. “It isn’t that much more expensive to choose pasture-raised eggs, but it makes a huge difference in the flavor and the quality of life for the animal. Our hope is that our customers notice the difference and opt to make those choices [at home] too.”
Beyond ingredient idealism, the business works hard to serve the needs of Nederland locals, rather than simply catering to the town’s seasonal tourists. After hearing multiple requests for healthier food options—which the town lacks, in general—Audrey and Mike opened Sweet Sue’s: a juice shop that doubles as a gourmet gift store. Additionally, once a month Audrey and Carl host a family-style Full Moon Dinner for 24 lucky (and typically local) guests. The menu changes every month, and entertainment typically includes live music and some kind of energy reader or healer.
“Living in this area, we see the opportunities, the things that people are craving or missing,” Audrey says. “We’ve also seen how traditional restaurants can be incredibly wasteful, so we’ve focused on doing things that are simple or finding ways to repurpose the same ingredients.” In fact, the shop’s most popular bagel might be the strongest testament to simple, done right: the Secret Garden, a spring- and summer-only stack of cream cheese, heirloom tomato, local cucumbers, pickled shallots and a drizzle of olive oil.
A Perfect (Adventure) Pairing: Nederland has its fair share of gorgeous hiking trails, but on the hottest days Carl recommends a trip to Forsyth Canyon at Gross Reservoir. “It’s a bit of a drive, but going through ‘Ned’ is one of the easiest ways to get there. You hike down from the top of the reservoir and go past a beautiful waterfall before coming out onto a peninsula that overlooks the water. It’s an easy hike, so you can even carry your paddleboard.”
Switchback Smokehouse | Kittredge, CO
An unassuming riverside outpost on the side of Highway 74, Switchback has its share of Foothills history. Formerly a popular ’90s eatery called Dick’s Hickory Dock, it was a beloved (and, locally, award-winning) barbecue outpost before shuttering for several years. Then, in 2011, Darryl Swarts purchased the (then) run-down building, fixing it up and reopening with a more fitting roadside name.
Hailing from Michigan, Darryl didn’t grow up in a BBQ culture, but his German roots exposed him to the time-tested traditions and recipes of European smoked meats. “The preservation of meat isn’t a uniquely American thing,” he emphasizes. “This has been going on for centuries, and has different regional expressions. We don’t focus on Texas, Carolina or any particular BBQ culture. We take a little bit from everyone and find what works for us.”
What’s working currently at Switchback is a menu that sells out every single summer weekend. From the tender ribs to the pulled pork and housemade sauces, hungry hikers will find plenty to drool over. Darryl also brings a unique perspective to his menu of sides, including such standards as baked beans and coleslaw alongside sleeper hits like fried giardiniera.
“Our menu hasn’t changed that much since opening,” he recalls, “but smokers have a learning curve—pretty steep, actually, since no two are the same. It’s been a fun journey figuring it out, because every day you’re still trying to tweak things and make it better.” A decade into the business, Darryl has continued to evolve the business with the help of his wife, Rachel Sanford, a fellow veteran of the local hospitality industry (and the owner of the ice cream shop next door). While the pair knew little about Kittredge and Evergreen before opening the smokehouse, their lives are now deeply entrenched in the community—with Rachel even coaching the high school lacrosse team.
The locals are proud to keep Switchback their little secret, but the business regularly draws diners from across JeffCo, Denver County and beyond. “Our point of pride is that the food is always made fresh that day,” Darryl says. “I still get there really early in the morning to be ready for 11am. We always make as much as we can, and we always sell out.” Our recommendation? Plan to be there for lunch—even if their website technically says they’re open until 6pm.
A Perfect (Adventure) Pairing: Lair O’ the Bear and Pence Park may be the closest hikes near Switchback, but Darryl says Mount Falcon is his go-to spot. “It’s pretty accessible, you can bring older relatives or kids, and in just a few minutes of walking you can already see the continental divide or the city skyline.”
